Wednesday, March 20, 2013

Praying for a Miracle: Mission San Juan Capistrano in March

On All Saint's Day in 1776, Spanish priests of the Franciscan Order founded the mission at San Juan Capistrano, one of the most beautiful and impressive missions along the California coast. In 1812, an earthquake struck the region, toppling the bell tower during morning mass and killing 40 people. The mission fell into disrepair for a century until Hollywood "discovered" it. D.W. Griffith shot parts of his western film The Two Brothers there, and soon after, Mary Pickford renewed her vows to Owen Moore in the ruins of the Great Stone Church.

1925 painting by Charles Percy Austin
Here's how the mission looks today.

Old vs. New California:
A beach cruiser is parked outside the mission's front gate.

A statue of Father Junipero Serra, founder of the
California missions, keeps vigil over the the ruins.

Inside the Great Stone Church.

Footprint of the fallen bell tower.

Serra Chapel, the oldest continuously used
church building in California.

Restoration of the mission grounds began in the 1910s.
In the 1800s, locals gathered on the tile rooftops
to watch rodeos in the courtyard below.

The Moorish Fountain.


The most popular time to visit the mission is St. Joseph's Day on March 19th, when tourists hope to witness the Miracle of the Swallows. Every spring, American Cliff Swallows return to California after spending the winter in Argentina.

Mud nests created by swallows several years ago.
In recent years, the birds have avoided the hustle and bustle of the mission. They appear to have gone upscale, preferring the wide open spaces of golf course at the Vellano Country Club in Chino Hills. Earlier this month, ornithologists set up speakers to play bird calls, hoping to lure the swallows back to their old home. So far, the birds are having none of it, but Southern Californians continue to hope for another miracle.





12 comments:

  1. Oh I went there a few years ago, I was educated by Franciscans till I was 12, like the Jesuits they pull you back.

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    1. I went to a Franciscan high school. I'm not Catholic, but I adored my time there. Bonus - I learned Latin.

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  2. Is this the biggest Mission located in San Diego? Last summer we visited the Missions at Carmel and Santa Barbara. They are beautiful and historical places to visit. They always have lovely gardens.

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    1. I think it might be the biggest one in south of Santa Barbara. In my opinion, it's the loveliest in the area because of the central courtyard. It's certainly one of the most visited missions. The missions at Carmel and Santa Barbara are amazingly beautiful too.

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  3. Okay, where are all the people? It is beautiful and seems from the pictures to be quite tranquil.

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    1. Ha! Well, there were at least 5 different grade school field trips going on, and lots of lots of tourists. We managed to get a few shots without other people in them, but I have lots more featuring random people's arms, maps, and/or butts.

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  4. Thank you for the fascinating history of San Juan Capistrano. It is amazing that in that time and place, they found the wherewithal to build such an elegant and picturesque structure.

    When I was in California a long time ago, we stopped at a number of old missions, but not I believe this one. I am a little confused by the Serra Chapel--was part of the mission always in use, even though sections had fallen into ruin?
    --Road to Parnassus

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    1. The first sanctuary on the site was an adobe chapel built in 1778. That chapel was replaced by the Serra Chapel in 1782. Construction of the larger Great Stone Church began in 1797 and was finally completed in 1806. That church stood for only 6 years before being destroyed by a 6.9 earthquake. However, the Serra Chapel and some of the other buildings survived. The missionaries left California in the 1830s after Mexican independence, but resident priests stayed on. California gained US statehood in 1850, and in 1865, President Lincoln gave the mission back to the Catholic Church. Major restoration of the Serra Chapel, gardens, and courtyard buildings began in 1910 with the arrival of Father John O'Sullivan.

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    2. Hi again, Thanks for this very clear time-line. A lot has happened in 200+ years. I hope that I will get a chance to visit in person.

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  5. Beautiful!

    Once again you are making me want to dance over the pond and across to California ... I need a bit of sunshine in my soul! Thank you for this small dose.

    xx

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    1. We do get spoiled with the fantastic weather here!

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